"When Albert Yau opened his restaurant in the former Hunan Annapolis in Pasadena, it changed the landscape of local Chinese/Pan-Asian restaurants: It provided an elegant setting to what had been a traditional and more modest dining experience, along with offering some very good food.

Now called Albert Yau's East West Bistro, it promises to become a favorite spot for an upscale, yet comfortable, Asian cuisine dining experience.

Along with the time-honored appetizers such as spring rolls, sweet and sour cabbage, shrimp toast and steamed dumplings are the less traditional: Chicken in Soothing Lettuce Wrap, nicely spiced ground chicken in a lettuce cup; Thai Golden Herb Calamari with a tangy chili lemon dip; Squid on the Griddle, marinated with thyme, garlic and olive oil; and grilled marinated lamb chops.

The Sweet and Sour Spareribs were delicious without being cloying and the Chicken Satay was perfectly grilled and served with a light malay-style peanut sauce that was a nice contrast to the pureed peanut butter served in lesser restaurants.

A nice selection of soups are also available, including crab and fresh asparagus; miso; Seafood and Corn Cream; a spicy Thai Seafood Tom Yum hot and sour; a comfort Subgum Wonton, well-filled with shrimp, scallops, chicken and vegetables in a lovely broth, as well as the traditional favorites.

Main course offerings include both the usual and the more unusual choices, all beautifully presented on a variety of plates: Seasoned Crispy Jumbo Shrimp with a spicy butter sauce over crispy noodles was delicious, as was the Malay Style Curry with chicken (beef is another option) with wonderful cubed potatoes in a subtle curry sauce. The fresh Atlantic Salmon can be had with a just-right ginger and scallion sauce or with a spicy black bean sauce for the more adventurous.

The nightly specials included a grilled New York Strip that was judged tender and flavorful, as was the filet mignon sauteed in an orange sauce. This can also be served with a black pepper sauce instead, if desired.

The Hunan Prok, Sweet and Sour Pork, and Double-Cooked Pork selections have become house favorites as well. For the vegetarians among us, both spicy and non-spicy offerings are available, with eggplant, tofu, bok choy, long beans and broccoli.

Even the dessets were a hit, with a very lemony Lemoncello Tartufo Gelato and a Chocolate Duo Mousse with cherries as stand-outs.

The wine list was comprehensive without being being overwhelming, and well-matched to the varied menu. The B.V. Signet Collection Cabernet complemented our more highly-spiced choices and the Echelon Chardonnay was the perfect choice for the lighter menu choices.

The service was friendly and impeccable. All in all, dinner was a hit with all who joined our table."